Nov 23 2012

Paw Print, How to Cross Stitch

Posted on November 23, 2012 by Rachel

After I drew my paw print pattern I got to stitching! Here’s how to cross stitch. First I’ll go a little backwards with photos of doing the cross stitch with a border I’m putting around it. But a starting note, remember, is that there is no knot at the end of the thread, you simply leave about an inch on the back side of the fabric.

take the needle through to the front side of the canvas from the bottom hole

pull through and go to the next row over, up and to the right diagonally, pull needle all the way through to the back of the canvas

next go to the hole directly underneath the hole in the previous step and pull the needle through to the right side of the fabric

after you’ve done another diagonal stitch, go to the hole underneath the one previously used and pull needle through to the right side of the fabric

now go up and diagonal to the left

the first X is complete and now repeat

go diagonal again to complete the second X

In my pattern I have a lot of half squares which could be confusing. But really it either means a half of stitch, literally a half of a stitch where the needle goes through the center of the square making the diagonal half of it’s usual length.

Pattern Complete

This is the pattern complete! But I needed a way to finish it, make it actually look complete. So I decided to make a border around it.

It still quite wasn’t what I hoped so I added another border.

almost complete

That looks much better to me, so now I’m going to fill it in with a cream colored thread to leave no square unstitched.

background is filled in

To finish the stitching part of this I decided to backstitch around the paw print to highlight it. This is easier, I think, than back stitching in sewing because it has the holes to put your needles in to make your stitches the same length and it is often used as a finishing stitch in cross stitch.

Stitching is Finished!

I put a pencil next to it to give a size reference. Now I need to figure out how to turn this into an ornament.

Nov 21 2012

More Cross Stitch Patterns

Posted on November 21, 2012 by Rachel

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I’ve drawn more cross stitch patterns! I’ve gotten the pattern making bug! But thank goodness for pencils and erasers because I used them a lot! 🙂

I made more patterns because I made Rusty a cross stitch pattern, which will be turned into an ornament that I decided my husband and I needed one too. Granted they are very basic, beginner cross stitch patterns, but they are my first group of patterns I’ve ever drawn. I can’t really draw that well to begin with but I wanted to try.

I have decided not to do a color legend for these because I wanted to keep my options open, as in, I wanted to make sure I had enough thread in my thread mess ball.

my pattern

I couldn’t decide what to make for Joshua, my husband, so I sketched a couple of his hobbies and let him choose which one I made.

running shoe

mountain climber

snowboard and goggles

He picked the mountain climber so now I have two more ornaments to stitch and make into ornaments! Still deciding on whether or not to backstitch the year onto it.

Graph paper really is a girls best friend when trying to draw cross stitch patterns.

Nov 20 2012

Drawing a Cross Stitch Pattern

Posted on November 20, 2012 by Rachel

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I have never sketched out my own pattern before. I’ve only bought patterns or found them for free online. I figured I would try it. This is what a blank canvas used for cross stitch looks like:

canvas

Lots of tiny squares with holes at each corner. So graphing paper is the perfect tool to help me because it will make things easier to draw. I have decided to try to make a paw print with a R in the middle of it for Rusty!

It’s important to know that the size of the squares on my graphing paper are big so the finished cross stitch will actually be quite small.

Another reason why I decided to draw my own cross stitch pattern is because I have this mess of thread left over from previous projects that I wanted to put to use.

my thread mess

I started with drawing the R.

After staring at Rusty’s paws for what seemed like a long time, I decided the part surrounding the R will look like an upside down heart with the point chopped off.

upside down heart

Next I needed the four little guys to go around the pad. I went with ovals but with angles instead of rounded edges to make the stitching easier.

paw

The next thing I did was unnecessary, but when you get a cross stitch pattern, there is usually a symbol that represents the color you need to stitch for that square. So I made my own key.

with symbols

Now I have a pattern to make the paw print! Eventually I will turn it into an ornament. Maybe I should put the year on it?

Nov 19 2012

How to Cross Stitch

Posted on November 19, 2012 by Rachel

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I feel like the holiday season is a popular cross stitch theme. Mainly because I have cross stitched and finished three cross stitch stockings. So I thought I’d show how to cross stitch.

To start with new thread, there is no knot at the end of the thread, you simply leave about an inch on the back side of the fabric and your stitches will make it tight.

Here’s the basic cross pattern, thank goodness for graph paper:

the . are where the needle goes through the needlework fabric

the solid lines represent thread.

step 1 how to cross stitch

Drew the same row of Xs underneath because it was getting crowded on the top row with all of the numbers You are literally making an X with your thread. Going left to right, when all of the / are done in that row you go right to left with a stitch that looks like this \ completing the X in cross stitch.

To end make sure your needle is on the back, wrong side, or your canvas and pull needle under a couple stitches to secure the thread in place.

Nov 13 2012

Needlepoint Weight Bench

Posted on November 13, 2012 by Rachel

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I have finally completed the weight bench!

For those who don’t remember I was working on needlepoint exercise equipment for dolls.

I changed the colors a little bit but that’s the great thing about needlepoint, all colors are merely suggestions! You can customize it to how ever you want. This, like the treadmill, is more for show than use. I mean it can be played with and I want them to be played with, but the weights don’t come off of the bar but the bar does come off of the weight bench.

Now, my nieces dolls can have a well rounded workout with cardio and strength training. The only piece left is the bicycle!

Nov 2 2012

How to Sew the Whip Stitch

Posted on November 2, 2012 by Rachel

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Here is my awesome drawing again! 🙂 Alright yesterday was the running stitch, and today I’ll be going over the whip stitch. It is a very versatile stitch and it is just a loop stitch. I have used it to repair holes in fabric that are not on the seam, to edge a button hole to give it strength, to combine different fabrics for sewing and knitting, and I’ve used to to combine my plastic canvas pieces for the doll workout equipment.

Reminders:

– On my fabric you’ll see a R and W written on it, this is for Right side of the fabric or the side everyone sees when the project is finished and Wrong side of fabric or the underneath part people don’t see.

– Another side note, I found out the hard way that this wasn’t the greatest fabric to do my tutorial with, it breaks and pills very easily. It’s an old pillowcase.

– For all hand stitches, use two of string only about forearm length so you aren’t tangling or doing extra unnecessary movements. Also, tie a knot at the end of the thread, sometimes more than one knot in the same place is needed so the knot doesn’t go through the fabric.

I’ll show two different types of whip stitches today, first one will be to close a rip in fabric that is not near a seam. It’s a little messy, so try to find thread that best matches the fabric.

repairing a rip

Start on the wrong side of the fabric just below the beginning of the rip.

start on wrong side of fabric

Go over the rip to the top of it.

go over rip

looping it around, wrong side of the fabric

I’m creating a circle with the thread and come through the right side of the fabric below the rip again.

Go to the top over the rip

Closing the rip

The whip stitch is used to close the rip and to prevent it from getting bigger.

front view

back view

This is a little bit of a messy stitch job, but my point is made. You want to get your stitches as close to each other as possible to create a lot of strength and try to keep the stitches even. When the stitching is complete tie a double knot in the thread like I did for the running stitch.

Whip Stitch number two: button hole

hole for whip stitch number two

After I tie the knot I go through the wrong side so the needle comes out on the right side.

Loop around the edge

Creating a loop or circle around the hole

For this whip stitch, I only bring the needle from the wrong side to the right side because I am edging or finishing around the hole. So I am just making a circle with my thread enclosing the edges with thread.

front view

back

Once you have gone all around the hole, tie a knot.

same whip stitch from Rusty’s Lion Mane Costume

All Stitches Front View

All Stiches Back View

It’s a great idea to practice these stitches before using them on a project. Also, it might be helpful to have a swatch of fabric like the one above with the labeled stitches. It is a good reminder of how to do the stitches. I like to have one anyways.

Nov 1 2012

How to Sew the Running or Basting Stitch

Posted on November 1, 2012 by Rachel

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The past couple of projects I have used a couple of hand stitches. One is the running stitch and the other is the whip stitch. I tried my best to draw it but here are a couple of pictures as well.

– Another side note, I found out the hard way that this wasn’t the greatest fabric to do my tutorial with, it breaks and pills very easily. It’s an old pillowcase.

The first stitch is a running stitch. Also called a basting stitch because you can increase the length of this stitch and use it to mark/baste fabric and then easily remove the stitch.

Tie a Knot

For all hand stitches, use two of string only about forearm length so you aren’t tangling or doing extra unnecessary movements. Also, tie a knot at the end of the thread, sometimes more than one knot in the same place is needed so the knot doesn’t go through the fabric.

Take needle from wrong side of the fabric through to the right side of the fabric

from right side to wrong side

This is where I need to decide how long I want the stitch to be, because I need even straight stitches, which takes practice but even length stitches should always be the goal.

So you go just as far on the wrong side of the fabric as you do on the right side of the fabric.

equal stitch lengths

Continue with even stitches until you’ve reached the end.

finished, front view

back view

The wrong side of the fabric should look like the right view of the fabric.

tie off the stitches

After the stitches are complete, I need to tie it off so the stitches don’t come out, unless I’m basting, I take the needle underneath the last stitch and into the loop it creates to create a knot. I then tie another knot to make sure it is secure.

make a knot with the thread

finished

Tomorrow I’ll go over how to do two different variations of the whip stitch.

Oct 30 2012

How to Make a Lion’s Mane Dog Costume

Posted on October 30, 2012 by Rachel

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I decided Rusty needs to be a scary lion for Halloween. So I needed to figure out how to make a lion’s mane dog costume. His fur is already the right color so now all he needs is a mane. First thing I did was get online to search for some possible fake fur and order some samples.

fur swatches

I went with the coppery color from Mendel’s. It was a very close match to the color of Rusty’s fur. I took a tape measure and measured around Rusty’s neck. I didn’t need a lot of fur, a less than 1/2 yard but I went ahead and ordered 3/4 yard because I’ve never worked with fake fur fabric before.

Fur!

I first placed the fur around Rusty’s neck and placed a couple pins where I will need to cut the fake fur.

Place around to help measure

Pin/Mark desired length

Next I drew dots along the cut line constantly measuring the width to keep is the proper amount and then I connected the dots and cut along the line. Also, since the fabric is so thick and I knew it would not bleed through, I used a permanent marker so I could easily see the line.

Mark cut line

Connect the dots for cut line

I wanted the mane to really highlight Rusty’s face and have the fur going in multiple directions so I decided to hem/roll over the fur around his face. First I needed to roll over and pin the fur.

Roll over and pin

Rusty wasn’t too sure about this…

Rusty is not sure about this

then this face happened because I wouldn’t let him lay on it

I then hand stitched the hem because I wasn’t too sure how my machine would handle it and I didn’t want to risk it. Because of the fur you couldn’t see my uneven stitches, so I appreciated that 🙂 Next I needed to figure out how to keep the mane on Rusty so I went with velcro, a couple of inches long.

Cut velcro

I put the newly hemmed mane on Rusty and marked with pins where the velcro should go.

pin where velcro needs to be placed and trim away the fur

One part of the velcro needed to go on the right side of the fur so I needed to trim away the fur where it was going to be placed. I tried to hand stitch the velcro but I broke a couple of needles because of the thickness of the two pieces so I used Liquid Stitch and glued the pieces down and waited overnight for the glue to dry.

glue velcro down

After all of that work for the velcro, I put it on Rusty to test it out, and although I thought he looked adorable, Rusty wasn’t really having it and started to shake and actually shook hard enough for the velcro to come undone! So I had to come up with another plan. I went with a button, and it worked out quite well. I went into my button bag and found one that was similar in color, I think it’s an extra button from a coat I use to own, and hand sewed it underneath where the velcro is,

added a button

Next I needed to mark, cut and whip stitch the button-hole. I cut the hole to be a little smaller than the button itself so it would be secure and then I whip stitched around the opening to prevent the hole from stretching.

button-hole

Next I placed the mane back on Rusty and marked, with a pin, where his ears begin and end and then removed it from Rusty and drew a line for me to cut along.

mark where ears are

draw line and cut along it

I did the same thing for where his D-Ring on his leash will peak through, so I’m able to actually take him outside and celebrate.

inside minus D-ring hole

See what he looks like tomorrow!

Finished Results.

Check out another version of a lion mane dog costume here!

Oct 23 2012

Working on Barbie’s Fitness – Needlepoint

Posted on October 23, 2012 by Rachel

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So I’m working on this too….

This is one of those things that I had the brilliant idea to tackle the moment I saw the pattern. But, I bought the pattern the beginning of May and bought the materials in the beginning of June and here it is October. I’ve only completed one of the three pieces. :/

I bought the pattern because my mom was and still is awesome and made my sister and I a lot of Barbie furniture when we were younger. It was amazing! Unfortunately we didn’t realize how awesome they were and how much time my mom put into making them until we were older and I really appreciate it now. I also picked this one because my sister loves to work out. Yes is one of those crazies and I’m a little jealous of the that. I dread working out but I do it. Anyways, we have nostalgia of our mommy making these, which puts a smile on my face, and practical use because my nieces will use them.

After completing one of them, it is rewarding. Here is the treadmill! Doesn’t look quite like the one in the picture but I think that is because Barbie never used the one in the picture, it was just a photo prop. 🙂

Unfortunately, this is all I have completed of the other two pieces.

But, I think I should be able to complete the needlework soon. I consider the mapping and cutting out of all of the pieces to be the most annoying part of the entire process, second to the actual creation of the 3D object because they remind me of puzzles and I’ve never really enjoyed puzzles. I do enjoy the needlework though. I’ll keep you posted and maybe show the basic needle point stitch and whip stitch as I’m completing these.

Let’s hope I get them finished by Christmas!

Oct 17 2012

How to Sew a Reflective Dog Leash

Posted on October 17, 2012 by Rachel

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So I have two how-to’s already written out that I had done for others so I thought I would share! The first one is a reflective dog leash and the second is a double sided door draft.

Today I’ll share how I made Rusty, my dog, a reflective leash. Meet Rusty. He just turned three and is a cockerpoo, cocker spaniel/poodle mix. This is what he does when I lay fabric out on the floor, when my table isn’t big enough, to measure and cut. He loves to “help.”

Materials:

nylon webbing
matching thread
reflective fabric tape
clip
sewing machine with heavy duty needle or hand needle
tape measure

I picked out black nylon webbing at 3/4 in wide and had the clip from the old leash my dog chewed through. My dog is only 35lbs but if your dog is bigger or smaller you should adjust the size of your nylon. You should be able to find the nylon and clip from craft stores or online.

Next is figuring out, measuring and cutting the right size leash for you. I tie this leash around my waist when Rusty, my dog, and I go on runs so I wanted it to be about 5ft long so it was long enough to give us some slack but short enough to keep him close by but I think the average length of most leashes. When figuring the length out, you also have to add to the length the amount it will take to attach it to the clip, about 2in and the hand hold, I added 14in for that. Measure it out and cut!

Next it’s time to sew! Either use a heavy duty sewing needle in your machine or hand stitch. Do not use a universal needle in your machine, it’s not meant to go through the nylon and could mess up your tension which could result in having to get your machine serviced and that can be costly.

I started by slipping the nylon through the clip and put enough through to where there was enough to sew and sewed until I felt like it was secure. If you’re hand sewing, I suggest cutting about a foot of string, tie a knot at the end and go from there. If your pup likes to pull when going on a walk, more thread might be needed to keep it in place.

Next came the hand hold. I measured out 7.5in from the top and folded it down and sewed, making the handhold a total of 14in not counting the part I sewed. I also put from some Fray Check on the ends of the leash after I sewed them down just in case.

Now the easy part. The reflective fabric tape, which I assume you can just peel the backing off and stick on the places you want but I had reflective tape on hand but it wasn’t for fabric. :/ But no worries, I cut up the pieces I wanted, I choose to have three stripes of at the bottom and both sides of the leash along with a pieces a couple inches long at the top on both sides of the hand hold. I decided not to cover the whole thing in the tape because I want people to see us but I don’t want to blind people either. I then placed some fabric glue on each piece and adhered them to the leash and allowed them to dry.

After a couple of months the reflective tape is showing a little wear but if it does come off I am going to get the fabric reflective tape to replace it.

Enjoy! I know Rusty and I are 🙂

Needles and Know How

Putting my Needles to Work

Category Archives: Hand Sewing

Paw Print, How to Cross Stitch

More Cross Stitch Patterns

Drawing a Cross Stitch Pattern

How to Cross Stitch

Needlepoint Weight Bench

How to Sew the Whip Stitch

How to Sew the Running or Basting Stitch

How to Make a Lion’s Mane Dog Costume

Working on Barbie’s Fitness – Needlepoint

How to Sew a Reflective Dog Leash

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