felted bag

Felted Knit Bag Revisited

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My last attempt at felting a bag did not go very well. So, I threw the almost felted knit bag into a different washer that had more options and it worked a bit better. I actually think if I put it on another cycle it would have been completely felted, but I had no more quarters with me and I really didn’t want to spend anymore time in my building’s basement. But I do like the way it turned out, the knitting does get to be more like a fabric, it feels a lot stronger and I like that it looks fuzzy.  Here is what it looks like…

bag

2nd time felted

Then I finished the bag by whip stitching around the flap with the gray novelty yarn and attached a button.

felted knit bag

finished

I’m pretty happy with the results. I’ll have to use it next time I go out!

 


Wash Instructions on Yarn for Knitting

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All of those wash instructions symbols on the yarn tag can be confusing, before I got a knitting book, I started a page where I drew the symbol and wrote what it meant underneath it. I think I have most of them now, so I’ll share it.

knitting wash wash instructions

Wash Symbols

If there’s an X through it, don’t do it! Now that I’ve knitting a few things and felt like I’ve looked at thousands of labels trying to pick out yarn, the pictures are a bit self-explanatory but when just a month ago, I was confused to what they meant and now I have a page to look back on and check just in case I forget.


How to Sew in a Zipper

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Yesterday I showed how to create a bed for a dog kennel. Today I’ll show you how to sew in a zipper. I cut some pieces of fabric and drew on them to better show how to sew the central zipper in.

-To start, mark where the zipper will go because before and after the zipper a seam stitch will be sewn and where the zipper will go, I’ll do a basting stitch, or the longest stitch on my machine.

-Use pins or fabric chalk to mark the fabric. Don’t use a marker like I did, I just wanted to clearly show where to mark.

mark

mark fabric

baste

where to baste

– Pin the fabric together and baste where the zipper goes and continue with the seam stitch before and after the zipper, backstitching when I stitch the stitch length, I’m using a 5/8inch seam.

both stitches

differences in stitches

-Then iron the seam open.

iron seam

iron seam

– Then pin the zipper, face down, teeth to the seam. I placed the pins in the wrong direction. So I had to switch them so I could easily remove them as I was stitching.

zipper

pin zipper over seam

– Using a basting stitch, longest stitch on my machine, I place the edge of my zipper foot directly in the middle of the teeth and stitch, when I need to turn, I leave the needle in the fabric, lift the foot, and turn the fabric to the direction, put the foot down and begin to stitch again. I use a basting stitch to tack the zipper to the fabric and I don’t have to worry about removing pins as I sew.

– When I get to the zipper head, I make sure the needle is in the fabric, lift the zipper foot and push the zipper head past the foot.

zipper foot

zipper foot up, and push the zipper head past the foot

– Once the zipper head is out of the way, put the foot down, and continue stitching.

down

zipper foot down and continue stitching

-After the basting, stitch around the zipper with a smaller stitch size, just outside the basting stitch. Using the same technique at the corners and the zipper head.

-Once the stitching is complete, remove the basting stitch around the zipper and in the middle of the zipper.

basting

remove basting stitch

– The zipper is complete! The zipper has been successfully installed. It does take practice but it’s not as intimidating as it first appears.

zipper

zipper complete

zipper

finished

Happy Sewing!


bed

How to Sew a Dog Bed for a Crate

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When Rusty has to go into his crate all he does is sleep. I decided to make him a bed for his kennel so he is a little more comfortable while I am away. First I gathered supplies. You’ll see that I actually bought a dog bed foam kit. I did this because I had a coupon and that made it cheaper to buy the kit than it was to get the 1.5inch foam cut to my specifications since a coupon wasn’t available for the foam you get by the yard. Then bed is an oval which is why in later pictures you’ll see that the bed has rounded corners and doesn’t extend to the corners of the kennel. Also, I put a zipper on the bed so I can wash the fabric.

Bed Supplies

  • fabric
  • sewing machine
  • ruler and measuring tape
  • scissors
  • thread to match
  • marking chalk/pencil
  • pins
  • foam
  • kennel
  • long center zipper for end of bed

First thing I did was measure the kennel floor. Then I went and bought the foam and fabric to fit the bed, so I added a few inches in length to cover all sides of the bed.Then I remeasured the kennel floor and cut the foam to fit it.

bed

measure kennel

Next I placed the fabric down, put the foam on the fabric and folded the fabric over the foam, connecting the right side edges of the fabric. I could measure, draw and cut, but this way seemed easier to me. I did make a faint line on the fabric around the edges where I wanted to cut giving myself and extra inch to sew the seam.

measure the fabric

Then I cut the fabric.

sew

Cut and Sew

Next I remove the foam, pin the fabric together, get out my machine, and sew a 5/8 inch seam along two sides of the bed. The long side is a fold in the fabric and the other shorter side is where I’ll sew a zipper.

Next I get my long center zipper out, I think it was 22 inches.  I pin it to the right side of the fabric.

zipper

Pin and Sew zipper

I change to a zipper foot on my machine and sew it in.

zipper

Zipper

Then I place the foam in the giant pillow/bed case, zip it closed, and it’s ready to go into the kennel giving Rusty a comfy bed to sleep on while I’m away.

bed

Trying out his bed

I think he likes it!


How to Knit the Purl Stitch

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Purl stitch day!

We know how to do the standard knit stitch, so it’s time to switch it up a bit, well literally switch it up with the purl stitch. The purl is the opposite of the knit stitch.

With the knit stitch, the yarn starts in the back, but for the purl stitch the thread starts in the front.

purl stitch

start with the thread in front

Next take the right hand needle through the first stitch on the left hand needle, going from the back of the needle to the front of the needle.

step 1

back to front

step 1

another view

Then take the yarn over the right hand needle.

step 2

wrap yarn around needle

Like with the knit stitch, pull the right hand needle out catching the yarn.

step 3

catch yarn while pulling right hand needle out

step4

catch

Then push the stitch off of the left needle and pull the yarn a bit to keep the stitch tension consistent.

push off

push stitch off

There’s the purl stitch! Now I can create more patterns with knitting.

 


How to Sew the Whip Stitch

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Here is my awesome drawing again! 🙂 Alright yesterday was the running stitch, and today I’ll be going over the whip stitch. It is a very versatile stitch and it is just a loop stitch. I have used it to repair holes in fabric that are not on the seam, to edge a button hole to give it strength, to combine different fabrics for sewing and knitting, and I’ve used to to combine my plastic canvas pieces for the doll workout equipment.

Reminders:

– On my fabric you’ll see a R and W written on it, this is for Right side of the fabric or the side everyone sees when the project is finished and Wrong side of fabric or the underneath part people don’t see.

– Another side note, I found out the hard way that this wasn’t the greatest fabric to do my tutorial with, it breaks and pills very easily. It’s an old pillowcase.

– For all hand stitches, use two of string only about forearm length so you aren’t tangling or doing extra unnecessary movements. Also, tie a knot at the end of the thread, sometimes more than one knot in the same place is needed so the knot doesn’t go through the fabric.

I’ll show two different types of whip stitches today, first one will be to close a rip in fabric that is not near a seam. It’s a little messy, so try to find thread that best matches the fabric.

whip stitch

repairing a rip

Start on the wrong side of the fabric just below the beginning of the rip.

whip stitch

start on wrong side of fabric

Go over the rip to the top of it.

whip stitch

go over rip

circle

looping it around, wrong side of the fabric

I’m creating a circle with the thread and come through the right side of the fabric below the rip again.

whip stitch

whip stitch

Go to the top over the rip

whip

Closing the rip

The whip stitch is used to close the rip and to prevent it from getting bigger.

whip

front view

whip

back view

This is a little bit of a messy stitch job, but my point is made. You want to get your stitches as close to each other as possible to create a lot of strength and try to keep the stitches even. When the stitching is complete tie a double knot in the thread like I did for the running stitch.

Whip Stitch number two: button hole

whip button

hole for whip stitch number two

After I tie the knot I go through the wrong side so the needle comes out on the right side.

EDGE

Loop around the edge

whip

Creating a loop or circle around the hole

For this whip stitch, I only bring the needle from the wrong side to the right side because I am edging or finishing around the hole. So I am just making a circle with my thread enclosing the edges with thread.

whip

front view

stitch

back

Once you have gone all around the hole, tie a knot.

button

same whip stitch from Rusty’s Lion Mane Costume

 

all stitches

All Stitches Front View

All Stiches Back View

It’s a great idea to practice these stitches before using them on a project. Also, it might be helpful to have a swatch of fabric like the one above with the labeled stitches. It is a good reminder of how to do the stitches. I like to have one anyways.

 

 


How to Sew the Running or Basting Stitch

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The past couple of projects I have used a couple of hand stitches. One is the running stitch and the other is the whip stitch. I tried my best to draw it but here are a couple of pictures as well.

– On my fabric you’ll see a R and W written on it, this is for Right side of the fabric or the side everyone sees when the project is finished and Wrong side of fabric or the underneath part people don’t see.

– Another side note, I found out the hard way that this wasn’t the greatest fabric to do my tutorial with, it breaks and pills very easily. It’s an old pillowcase.

The first stitch is a running stitch. Also called a basting stitch because you can increase the length of this stitch and use it to mark/baste fabric and then easily remove the stitch.

tie

Tie a Knot

For all hand stitches, use two of string only about forearm length so you aren’t tangling or doing extra unnecessary movements. Also, tie a knot at the end of the thread, sometimes more than one knot in the same place is needed so the knot doesn’t go through the fabric.

Take needle from wrong side of the fabric through to the right side of the fabric

from right side to wrong side

This is where I need to decide how long I want the stitch to be, because I need even straight stitches, which takes practice but even length stitches should always be the goal.

running

So you go just as far on the wrong side of the fabric as you do on the right side of the fabric.
baste

equal stitch lengths

Continue with even stitches until you’ve reached the end.

running stitch

finished, front view

back view

back view

The wrong side of the fabric should look like the right view of the fabric.

tie

tie off the stitches

After the stitches are complete, I need to tie it off so the stitches don’t come out, unless I’m basting, I take the needle underneath the last stitch and into the loop it creates to create a knot. I then tie another knot to make sure it is secure.

tie

make a knot with the thread

fnished

finished

Tomorrow I’ll go over how to do two different variations of the whip stitch.